Lawns
Introduction This condensed information is for those who have a larger than normal lawn area to maintain - say from an acre up to 15 acres (and in some cases more). Many years ago when gardens were laid out with large expanses of lawns, there was an abundance of staff to maintain them. Unfortunately this is no longer the case, but although the staff may have vanished, the large lawn areas remain. Such large areas of turf do require an intense management programme or they deteriorate very quickly. In many instances where these large expanses of lawns were laid out it was in order to dominate the large houses that they surrounded, and to show off these houses and the surrounding garden to their best effect. Alas with the amount of time required they are in many cases having the opposite effect to what was intended. The problems become more apparent in time and the owner gets ever more despondent. However help is now at hand. Throughout this booklet I will try and make a routine maintenance task something that you will want to do, because it is not going to take a lot of physical effort and can even become a relaxing pastime that takes you away from the hum drum routine, gets you out into the open, and helps to keep you fit. But mainly it will improve your lawns and give you something to be proud of. The Main Tasks What are the main tasks that are difficult to carry out because of the sheer size of the lawn and so probably have not been carried out on a regular basis, or maybe not at all? 1 Cutting 2 Scarification 3 Aeration 4 Renovation of worn areas 5 The application of fertilisers and chemicals Let us run through each one to see how mechanisation can make life easier. A compact tractor is the one essential machine required in order to add on all of the other implements needed for routine, essential turf management. Then rather than having to walk behind small machines you will be able to ride on, while carrying out those essential tasks. Your choice of other equipment will determine what horsepower your compact tractor will require. As a rough guide you will need a compact tractor of 18hp - 35 hp. The requirement for most attachments discussed in this booklet is between 16hp and 24 hp, with a power take off (PTO) and a three-point linkage system.
Cutting Large areas require large machines. Mowing should be carried out as often as possible. The more you can cut grass at the correct height the better sward you will get. Mowing should not become a task that is only tackled because the grass has got too long, and it certainly should never become a chore. It can be a very satisfying task when done properly. Always cut in different direction to the last cut if possible and do not cut the lawn too closely. Many people have the misguided notion that if the grass is shaved off then the job will not have to be carried out for a longer period of time. Wrong! This only leads to a quick deterioration of the sward. Shaving a lawn leaves it open to invasion from weeds and encourages moss. But most importantly, by cutting too short you remove the grass plants factory (the grass blades) which helps it to photosynthesise. If you recall your biology lessons at school, this converts sunlight into essential plant foods for growth. The ideal cutting height for most lawns is between 20mm and 25mm. If you have a lawn which comprises very fine grasses, then you can go down to 10mm, provided the contours of the lawn will take this short height of cut. Most lawns have uneven areas and the cutting height should not scalp the high spots. It is always best to remove the clippings, but on large areas this is not always possible, unless you have a special unit just for cutting. If it is not possible either because of time, or having restricted machinery availability, letting the clippings fly does cause one of the major problems on large lawns, especially if they are old. That is the problem of thatch, which we will deal with later. If you have a large area where you are quite prepared to allow the cuttings to fly, then the SISIS Compact Hydraulic Reel mowers are for you.
The SISIS TR66 can cut up to 3 acres per hour at 6mph. The SISIS TR84 can cut up to 3.8 acres per hour at 6mph. So we can see that with this amount of acreage being cut in so short a time, cutting becomes a pastime to be carried out frequently, without any physical effort. Let the machine take the strain! If you want to have an even better lawn then you must remove the cuttings. For this you will require a separate grass-cutting unit, as the gang type cutting units do not have collection boxes. Although these machines are more expensive they do, without any question, give a finer finish and encourage a better sward.
Scarification Thatch is probably the worst problem to affect large lawns when they have not received a regular maintenance programme. Scarification is the operation to remove. Thatch is the accumulation of dead or decayed or partially decaying organic matter at the base of the leaves of the grass plant. Despite the popular modern idea that mowings will mulch back into the soil, if they are chopped up finely enough, thatch is a No. Thatch causes the following problems: 1 Prevents fertiliser from reaching the roots of the grass plant. 2 Does not allow oxygen and water to get to the root system. 3 Encourages the grass plant to grow along the surface and not root into the ground. 4 Encourages attacks of moss and weeds. 5 The lawn will die off more quickly in dry spells. 6 Leads to sparse grass cover and eventually the lawn dies. Factors that encourage the build up of thatch are: 7 Letting the grass clippings fly and not boxing off. 8 Poor aeration. 9 Poor surface drainage. 10 Excessive application of nitrogenous fertiliser. 11 Acidic soil. Old lawns that are suffering from thatch have a spongy feel when you walk over them. The remedy is to rake the whole of the lawn vigorously. Because this is a very physically demanding operation, it goes without saying that on large areas of lawn it probably will never get done, unless you become mechanised.
Because large lawn areas will probably not have been scarified for many years, the first time this operation is carried out may alarm you beyond belief. We are talking truckloads rather than barrow loads of debris being removed. But please do not be afraid. Provided some simple rules are adhered to, you will only be doing the lawn good. Golden rules when scarifying. 1 Do not try and do it all in one go. 2 At least three passes in different directions should be made. 3 The depth at which the tines/blades are set should be 5mm for the first pass, 8mm for the second pass and for the final pass set the tines at no more than 10mm. 4 Always sweep up or collect the debris. 5 Do not compost the debris. 6 If possible irrigate if no rain falls within four days. 7 Consider over-sowing the area after scarification. Aeration Like all plants, grass requires air and water to grow and function efficiently, and it requires those two essentials at the root zone of the plant, which may be down in the ground as much as 50mm - 75mm. If it is unable to obtain these two vital elements in the correct proportions the grass plant will suffer and eventually die. During the growing season the lawn becomes compacted by continual use. If there are children in the house then the lawn acts as Wembley for football, Lords for cricket and Wimbledon for tennis. Add to this the compaction caused by machinery and you end up with surface compaction. Do not get mixed up between surface compaction and bad drainage. Most lawns do not require a sophisticated form of drainage, but they do require a non-compacted surface, so that moisture does not rest on the surface unable to get away into the soil structure. Surface compaction is the main cause for moss invasion and many forms of algae and slime mould. Surface compaction impedes the drainage, and prevents the passage of fertilizers, water and air to the root zone, which all encourage a healthy grass sward. Like scarification, spiking (aeration) has tended not to get done because of the physical effort involved. Spiking should be carried out at least twice every year. Firstly in the Spring as this leads to a faster rise in soil temperature, which in turn encourages a quicker start for the grass to commence its growth pattern. It also will assist in getting water down to that all important root zone more quickly. Secondly it should be carried out again in the Autumn. This will open up the surface and relieve the compaction from the busy wear and tear of the Summer season. It will also open up the soil in readiness for the winter rain. SISIS have two excellent aerators to fit on to a compact tractor.
On old lawns it may not be possible to reach the maximum depth for a couple of seasons until the compaction has been relieved. The SISIS Multitiner can also be fitted to a compact tractor. It has a working width of 112 cms and is mounted on a three-point linkage system. The Multitiner has a range of quickly interchangeable solid, hollow coring and chisel tines for use at different times of year. Most aeration is carried out using solid tines. However if you want to change the soil structure, or if you are on a heavy clay soil and want to introduce sharp sand into the lawn, then coring tines should be used. Hollow tines remove a core of soil from the ground ready to introduce other materials. Alternatively, you can leave the surface open after coring if the area suffers from bad drainage. This is especially beneficial in the Autumn, so it can be left open over Winter. You can never spike lawns enough. If you have an extra hour to spare and fancy a drive around, then put the spiker on the tractor and enjoy. The lawn certainly will. Renovation At some time during the Spring or Autumn, areas of the lawn may require some form of renovation. In the Spring, after scarification, especially if it is the first time it has been carried out, the whole area can be over-sown with a good quality grass seed mixture. If you have scarified the whole area then this is an ideal time to over sow. Most lawns will require an all ryegrass mixture unless they are very fine lawns that contain fine bent and fescue type of grasses. These lawns tend to be the exception rather than the rule. If you require a lawn that will stand up to wear and tear then go for an all ryegrass mixture. If you have areas of the lawn that are in the shade, then over-sow these areas with a special shade mixture grass seed. You can also get seed mixtures for different soil types now, from good seed merchants. These mixes are made up for clay, sandy, or chalk soils.
The Variseeder has a studded roller, specially cast and spiralled to create, in effect, thousands of little plant pots to receive the grass seed which is broadcast simultaneously. Other Equipment What other attachments are useful? Well the list is endless; trailers, fertiliser spreaders, and sprayers, are all machines that, if the budget allows, you could use on large grassed areas. Some of these implements are only used occasionally and may be worth hiring rather than buying. Weeds The spraying of chemicals is now an environmental issue and one that the industry and I can relate to. No-one wants to spray weed killers month in and month out, however there may be an arguable case that if there is a very bad weed infestation on your lawn area then you have to spray them off once or maybe twice. Then by routine good turf management keep them down by cultural methods. If you can grow a good dense sward then weeds will not be able to establish themselves. So that must be the responsible aim. Most of the chemicals that are now available to the amateur gardener are not absolutely effective. There are stronger more effective chemicals available to those who are in the profession, who have to pass strict examinations before they are able to apply such weed killers and other chemicals. If you have large areas it is cost effective to use the services of a competent company who can spray your lawns for you, and whose staff are qualified. Be sure if you do have contract sprayers to do the work that their staff are qualified, and have their NPTC Certificate of Competence in the use of pesticides and also have their pesticide application modules PA1, PA2 and PA6A. Fertilising This is an important routine management procedure. Fertilising should be carried out on a regular basis during the Spring, Summer and Autumn/Winter. Just like humans the grass plant requires a balanced diet. There are three essential nutrients: 1) Nitrogen (N) this helps to increase leaf growth and gives the green colour to the grass plant. This is applied during the Spring and Summer months during the optimum growing season. 2) Phosphorous (P) plays a fundamental role in the release of energy in the plant. 3) Potassium (K) is taken up by the grass plant to help it become disease resistant and it also encourages a healthy growth. Fertilisers applied during the Spring and Summer should have high Nitrogen content and the Autumn/Winter fertilisers should contain a higher percentage of phosphate and potash and be very low in Nitrogen content. When you purchase fertilisers there will always be the percentage ratios numbers on the product of the nutrient values for N.P.and K. analysis. Fertilisers must be spread evenly to avoid over application and consequently scorching the turf. If you are on a clay or chalk based soil then give serious consideration to using liquid foliar feed fertilisers. Granular fertilisers have a difficult journey through a clay soil to the root zone and on chalk soils they can be leached out of the soil very quickly by heavy rain or constant irrigation. Foliar feeds, which are absorbed into the plant by the leaf, go directly to the roots. It is like the motorway to the root zone. You see a quicker result and it is more cost effective. Fertiliser spreaders that fit on to compact tractors are widely available. Leaf and Litter Collection. Some large estates and gardens are blessed with, and maybe even renowned for, collections of mature trees. However these can cause a nuisance in the Autumn. Leaves on lawns encourage worm activity and tend to cause fungal attacks. The SISIS Litamina is designed for the efficient collection of leaves, grass cuttings, hollow cores, and other turf refuse. The large capacity hopper is operated by hydraulics from two single or double acting rams. No need to get out of your seat even! The general brushing action of this sweeper also acts as a stimulant to grass growth and gives an excellent striped finish to large lawn areas. If you are going to cut large areas and let the clippings fly, then this is an essential must have accessory. To conclude Mechanisation takes out most of the physical effort, and the sheer amount of time required to carry out normal, routine, turf maintenance operations. By being able to sit and drive you will be able to do those essential tasks, and hopefully enjoy doing them. They are not toys for boys by any means, but owning a compact tractor and attachments will make you want to get out of the house and do those jobs on the lawn that previously you may have not wanted to do. SISIS also manufacture a wide range of independently powered machinery and hand tools. As for the lawn, - it will repay your investment, time and TLC by becoming that much sought after frame for the rest of the garden. And you can always say I did it my way. No responsibility is accepted by SISIS for the information contained in this article. SISIS machinery is designed, patented and manufactured in UK Copyright SISIS EQUIPMENT (Macclesfield) LTD. SISIS equipment is used at many of the worlds top sporting venues, including St.Andrews, Turnberry, Wimbledon, Ascot, Guards Polo Club, Parc de Prince in Paris, King Fahd Stadium, Saudi Arabia, Pebble Beach in the USA. Some of the most popular machinery recommended by SISIS for large lawn areas, for use with compact tractors or SISIS 21-1D tractor:
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